You drive to the end of the earth then go north for another 30 miles. Here is a most secluded beautiful area imaginable: It’s God’s Country! Nestled in the upper east side of Moosehead Lake is Spencer Bay. It’s remote. TV coverage is nonexistent. Cell coverage is almost as bad. The paved road ends at Kakadjo. And logging trucks rule the land.
Spencer Bay Campground is remote and beautiful.
There is a great State Park near here just outside of the sleepy little town of Greenville. Lily Bay SP is only 8 miles up the paved road and is worth the stay. But for the adventurous, farther north is the place to go. However, I caution you. Come with all your provisions, as there are few options once you leave Greenville.
So Spencer Bay it is! After stopping at Kakadjo Trading Post at the west end of 1st Roach Pond for a quick bite to eat, we headed up the dusty, rocky road to a camping area maintained by the state. At mile 6 on the Spencer Pond Road there is a spring. If you need drinkable water, this is a good stop. Further up the road we encountered a logging truck.
Chris at the swamp and silhouette of Deb in the Bay
Let me tell you about these logging trucks. They travel at a high rate of speed and take up a good portion of the dirt road. And they have the right-of-way. When it’s dry, they kick up a cloud of dust that would rival a Southwest dust storm! We met him on a corner, which complicated the situation. Fortunately, I was already hugging the right side of the road. After my heart returned to my chest and Deb stopped screaming (or crying?) I looked in my mirrors to make sure my brother was still following. He was taking his Class C on its maiden voyage and I was sure hoping he wasn’t in the pruckerbrush. He wasn’t; so we continued on.
At mile 7 our road to the campground veered to the left. In 1.4 miles we were at the Spencer Bay Campground. Beautiful views and more people than I expected greeted us here. This place has a total of 39 campsites and about half were taken. This was Thursday and by Saturday, there were only 2 spots left! According to the campground host, weekends can be busy but weekdays are empty. We were fortunate. Our site was right on the water.
Campsite at Spencer Bay. My “Campah” is on the left and my brother’s is behind it.
As you may have gathered, the ride in is on a long dirt road that can be dusty (or muddy if it rained recently). Things will be jostled around in the camper. The dust gets into everything. And you always run the risk of mechanical failure out here in the middle of nowhere. So as our luck would have it we acquired a flat on one of my trailer tires. Good Sam has saved us before but that was in civilization with cell coverage. We were on private roads, far away from any phone coverage, and pretty sure Good Sam couldn’t find us even if we did have cell coverage!
Again, my friendly attitude and desire to meet neighbors paid off. Gary and Nancy from Wilton are truck campers and were near our site. They offered to fix the tire if I could remove it. There’s a first for everything and this was a first for me. Wasn’t sure how long it would take but I had the tire removed in no time and Gary had a plug kit with him. (He mentioned how he comes prepared for everything. Once he had to save an 85 year old man up on the Golden Road who had 3 flats!). From start to finish, including conversation, the whole ordeal took less than an hour. I am forever indebted to Gary. He refused to take money and told me to pay it forward.
Every trip is an adventure! Here, I’m fixing a flat tire. Good Sam and AAA are useless where there is no cell service and on private roads.
So this is how the week went. Thursday involved settling in. It was a nice cool day and perfect for some r & r after 4 hours of driving. Friday was full of thunderstorms so we went into Kakadjo to visit my cousin and his family at “The Lodge”. Saturday turned rather warm and sunny. After dealing with my flat, it was time for a swim. Refreshed, we had to plan how to take in all this beauty. From the shores of Moosehead, the surrounding mountains, trees- flora- fauna, and the massive water make for an almost fairy-tale setting. So the time was spent watching the ducks, geese, and gulls frolic in the water and a short hike up the road to view for moose and other critters. I even saw a bear during the week about a mile from camp. Sunday started with an exploratory drive to a nearby campground (Cowens) and a view of Mt. Kineo. The nearby campground is 9 miles away. So, our week in God’s Country was off to a fabulous start!
(note: In Maine, any drive under10 miles is nearby, under 20 is a short drive, and over 30 is a bit of a drive.)
Mt Kineo is impressive with it’s 1800′ cliff.
One morning I got up at the crack of dawn (5 am) and went for a stroll. I observed a bald eagle harassing some ducklings, a cow moose eating a salad (okay, water plants in a nearby swamp), and enjoyed the peace and quite of nothing human. Places like this are becoming rarer to visit. We need to take care of them.
Moose and Coffee go together up here 😎
We rounded out the week with a visit to Greenville. During this trip we took a side trip to Elephant Mountain to view the B-52 crash site. Very interesting. It is considered a sacred site. So if you visit, please be respectful. Other activities included going for spring water, gathering firewood, and just plain ole relaxing and tinkering. On Thursday morning we packed up and headed to Lily Bay State Park for a night of civilized fun.
B52 crash site on Elephant Mtn.
The trip was a success. Lance got a chance to take his camper on a wilderness trip where he could try out all his new gadgets. We got some r & r in God’s Country. And we were able to give Turner a break from us. Life is good!
Coming soon, more tales from the Campah!
… Next adventure; “Views from home”
STAY TUNED! More “tales from the campah”!
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